YAKIMA RIVER
I love road trips. And, I love hot weather. Since the weather here in the Pacific Northwest has been so shitty this year, I really haven’t had a chance to do any real road trips yet, and the road was calling! I wasn’t sure where I would go, just that I was going. Like the Marshall Tucker Band sang, “I’ve Got Ramblin’ On My Mind”.
Some friends and I had talked about going north—up the Olympic Peninsula and across to Whidbey Island, maybe into Canada. On the other hand, I had thought about riding up the North Cascades Highway and down into the Methow Valley. Of course, riding down to the Oregon Coast had crossed my mind, but I wanted warm and sunny. Better yet, HOT and sunny. So, I rolled out of the garage on a mild Sunday morning with the idea of heading east. Layered up in a tank top, long sleeve t-shirt, sweatshirt and coat, topped off the tank, hit Highway 167, then 18, and blasted up over Tiger Mountain and Snoqualmie Pass on I-90. If you know me at all, I-90 is my least favorite (to put it mildly) road to take to get into Eastern Washington. But, if you wanna get there fast, it’s the one to take. As I headed down the eastern side of the pass, I had to pull over and shed my coat. Closing in on Ellensburg, I could feel the heat rising, and by the time I stopped for gas, off came the sweatshirt. It had been a few years since riding the Canyon Road between Ellensburg and Yakima, and there didn’t seem to be a lot of traffic…so I made the command decision to go that way.
Some friends and I had talked about going north—up the Olympic Peninsula and across to Whidbey Island, maybe into Canada. On the other hand, I had thought about riding up the North Cascades Highway and down into the Methow Valley. Of course, riding down to the Oregon Coast had crossed my mind, but I wanted warm and sunny. Better yet, HOT and sunny. So, I rolled out of the garage on a mild Sunday morning with the idea of heading east. Layered up in a tank top, long sleeve t-shirt, sweatshirt and coat, topped off the tank, hit Highway 167, then 18, and blasted up over Tiger Mountain and Snoqualmie Pass on I-90. If you know me at all, I-90 is my least favorite (to put it mildly) road to take to get into Eastern Washington. But, if you wanna get there fast, it’s the one to take. As I headed down the eastern side of the pass, I had to pull over and shed my coat. Closing in on Ellensburg, I could feel the heat rising, and by the time I stopped for gas, off came the sweatshirt. It had been a few years since riding the Canyon Road between Ellensburg and Yakima, and there didn’t seem to be a lot of traffic…so I made the command decision to go that way.
CANYON ROAD AND YAKIMA RIVER
SR22 BETWEEN MABTON AND PROSSER, WASHINGTON
The Canyon Road (SR821) follows the Yakima River for about 30 miles—nice lazy curves, some nice twisty ones, and great views. I think most every rider in Washington knows about this road! After a couple of stops for photos (and to shed the t-shirt), and I landed in Yakima, with the temp pushing above 80. That’s when I realized I did not bring sunscreen---not that I’ve needed it west of the mountains this year! Got some Coppertone at a store on the way, grabbed a quick taco for lunch, and dug out the map to see where else I wanted to go. The easy way would have been to head southwest out of Toppenish and over Satus Pass into Goldendale, but then I saw SR22 head southeast through the towns of Mabton and Prosser. Never been there, I thought, so off I went.
By the time I rolled into Prosser, the mercury was closer to 90, and I was dry. I saw a couple of bikes parked in front of a “lounge”, pulled up and went inside. This was a little (maybe 25X15) room off a café that served as the “bar”. Oh, well, they had cold beer, and that worked for me.
By the time I rolled into Prosser, the mercury was closer to 90, and I was dry. I saw a couple of bikes parked in front of a “lounge”, pulled up and went inside. This was a little (maybe 25X15) room off a café that served as the “bar”. Oh, well, they had cold beer, and that worked for me.
HORSE HEAVEN HILLS
VIEW OF YAKIMA VALLEY FROM HORSE HEAVEN HILLS OUTLOOK
MAP OF HORSE HEAVEN HILLS AREA
Back on the road, I saw a sign that pointed me toward Paterson, about 30 miles away. The road climbed out of the valley and into what is known as the Horse Heaven Hills---named for all the wild horses that used to roam there. The road, officially SR221 climbs up and rolls through farms and vineyards, mostly a straight line south until you reach Paterson. Paterson is basically a closed café and a stop sign.
From there, I turned right and cruised down SR14 along the Columbia River, which according to the map would take me about 65 miles past the towns of Alderdale and Roosevelt to the junction with Highway 97. If you ever ride this, top off your fuel in Prosser. I had gassed up in Ellensburg, and had only about 100 miles on my tank when I hit Prosser, but there is no…let me repeat myself…NO gas along that stretch of SR14.
Let me explain---I usually count on getting 175-185 miles before I need to gas up---I finally figured out that Biggs Junction, Oregon was going to be my saving grace for gas, and the miles kept counting up. Added to the mix was the light headwind I had been riding against since Paterson, and I was getting anxious! Easing up to the junction with Highway 97, I had to make a left turn to roll down the hill to the bridge, then across the Columbia River and back up a small hill to the gas stations. When I slowed to make the left turn, the bike wanted to die. I kept it running and did everything I could to ease down the hill, then gassed it to get over the bridge and rolled into the gas station at Biggs Junction, with 202 miles on the trip meter. Funny how a 5-gallon tank will take 5.3 gallons…
From there, I turned right and cruised down SR14 along the Columbia River, which according to the map would take me about 65 miles past the towns of Alderdale and Roosevelt to the junction with Highway 97. If you ever ride this, top off your fuel in Prosser. I had gassed up in Ellensburg, and had only about 100 miles on my tank when I hit Prosser, but there is no…let me repeat myself…NO gas along that stretch of SR14.
Let me explain---I usually count on getting 175-185 miles before I need to gas up---I finally figured out that Biggs Junction, Oregon was going to be my saving grace for gas, and the miles kept counting up. Added to the mix was the light headwind I had been riding against since Paterson, and I was getting anxious! Easing up to the junction with Highway 97, I had to make a left turn to roll down the hill to the bridge, then across the Columbia River and back up a small hill to the gas stations. When I slowed to make the left turn, the bike wanted to die. I kept it running and did everything I could to ease down the hill, then gassed it to get over the bridge and rolled into the gas station at Biggs Junction, with 202 miles on the trip meter. Funny how a 5-gallon tank will take 5.3 gallons…
COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE LOOKING WEST FROM STONEHENGE
After gassing up, I crossed back into Washington and rode up the hill to SR14, and went to the Stonehenge monument overlooking the Columbia River. This version of Stonehenge, built between 1918 and 1929, is the same size as the original in England. Inside, the names of 13 local men who died during World War I are remembered. A short walk across the parking lot is another monument, erected to memorialize local soldiers who died during World War II, Korea, and Vietnam.
Since it was getting into late afternoon, I rode back across the bridge to Oregon, and headed west to The Dalles. A rider at the gas station had said that the freeway between The Dalles and Hood River was clogged up with some kind of traffic problem, but I found out the hard way that it was between Biggs and The Dalles---traffic was stopped, inching forward at a snail’s pace for about 5 miles, all in 90-degree heat. A truck and trailer had caught fire, which then caused the hillside to catch on fire, so of course the freeway was filled with fire trucks, emergency vehicles and the like---except I never saw one State Police car! I finally broke loose and rode the shoulder (not sure if that’s legal in Oregon) and got ahead of most of the backup, and got into town. Stopped in at one of my favorite places, the Windy River, and had a beer and got out of the sun for a bit. Not a fancy place, but drinks are reasonable, people are friendly, and it’s easy to find.
Since it was getting into late afternoon, I rode back across the bridge to Oregon, and headed west to The Dalles. A rider at the gas station had said that the freeway between The Dalles and Hood River was clogged up with some kind of traffic problem, but I found out the hard way that it was between Biggs and The Dalles---traffic was stopped, inching forward at a snail’s pace for about 5 miles, all in 90-degree heat. A truck and trailer had caught fire, which then caused the hillside to catch on fire, so of course the freeway was filled with fire trucks, emergency vehicles and the like---except I never saw one State Police car! I finally broke loose and rode the shoulder (not sure if that’s legal in Oregon) and got ahead of most of the backup, and got into town. Stopped in at one of my favorite places, the Windy River, and had a beer and got out of the sun for a bit. Not a fancy place, but drinks are reasonable, people are friendly, and it’s easy to find.
STONEHENGE
WAR MEMORIAL AT STONEHENGE
I had thought about calling my friend Gary and running down to his place in Bend, but that’s a 2½-hour ride, and it was almost 6pm. Instead, I headed east on I-84 to Hood River to stay the night.
About halfway between the two towns is a “scenic drive” that spurs off I-84 near Rowena (exit 76), and if you are a rider that loves twisties, this road is for you! It starts out fairly straight, but as you get near Mayer State Park, the road winds and winds uphill to a great vantage point overlooking the Columbia Gorge, then drops and twists down to the town of Mosier, before joining back up with the interstate. It’s only 20 miles or so, but a hell of a lot of fun!
About halfway between the two towns is a “scenic drive” that spurs off I-84 near Rowena (exit 76), and if you are a rider that loves twisties, this road is for you! It starts out fairly straight, but as you get near Mayer State Park, the road winds and winds uphill to a great vantage point overlooking the Columbia Gorge, then drops and twists down to the town of Mosier, before joining back up with the interstate. It’s only 20 miles or so, but a hell of a lot of fun!
ROWENA SCENIC DRIVE
COLUMBIA GORGE LOOKING EAST FROM ROWENA OUTLOOK
Once in Hood River, I found a cheap motel (old, no fancy amenities, but all I needed was a shower and a bed!) for $55, got checked in and headed downtown for some grub.
Ok, let me tell you about Hood River: nice looking town that overlooks the Columbia River and the downtown area has been “revitalized” with shops, restaurants, winery stores, etc. The restaurants are all “bistros”, cafes, “eateries”---you get the picture---yuppie-fuckin heaven! I finally ended up at the Full Sail Brewery for dinner and a nice cold beer. I asked one of the people at the table next to me if there were any bars in town---you know, regular, neighborhood dive bars or taverns---since I had not seen one on my ride through the town. Yuppie Boy looked puzzled for a sec then said there was one a couple of blocks over and to the right. Paid for dinner, walked to the place he told me, called the Double Mountain. Obviously, what he considered a bar and what I expected were VERY different. This was another bistro/brew pub serving their own $5- glass beer. When I got back to my hotel, I dug out the phone book and looked for Taverns, Cocktail Lounges, etc…none to be found.
The sun was out bright and warm when I got up the next morning, showered, packed the bike and went looking for breakfast. Ended up at the little café across the street from the hotel, called Egg Harbor. Mediocre food, overworked (but very friendly and capable) waitress, and average prices. The best thing about it was the view from their front window---across the Columbia River was Washington’s Mount Adams.
Topped off the tank and headed out of town to the south, along Highway 281, then onto Highway 35. The nice part of this ride is that you go around the “back side” of Mount Hood, with spectacular views of the mountain. About 70 miles later, the road merges with US 26 and I headed west toward Timberline Lodge and Government Camp.
Ok, let me tell you about Hood River: nice looking town that overlooks the Columbia River and the downtown area has been “revitalized” with shops, restaurants, winery stores, etc. The restaurants are all “bistros”, cafes, “eateries”---you get the picture---yuppie-fuckin heaven! I finally ended up at the Full Sail Brewery for dinner and a nice cold beer. I asked one of the people at the table next to me if there were any bars in town---you know, regular, neighborhood dive bars or taverns---since I had not seen one on my ride through the town. Yuppie Boy looked puzzled for a sec then said there was one a couple of blocks over and to the right. Paid for dinner, walked to the place he told me, called the Double Mountain. Obviously, what he considered a bar and what I expected were VERY different. This was another bistro/brew pub serving their own $5- glass beer. When I got back to my hotel, I dug out the phone book and looked for Taverns, Cocktail Lounges, etc…none to be found.
The sun was out bright and warm when I got up the next morning, showered, packed the bike and went looking for breakfast. Ended up at the little café across the street from the hotel, called Egg Harbor. Mediocre food, overworked (but very friendly and capable) waitress, and average prices. The best thing about it was the view from their front window---across the Columbia River was Washington’s Mount Adams.
Topped off the tank and headed out of town to the south, along Highway 281, then onto Highway 35. The nice part of this ride is that you go around the “back side” of Mount Hood, with spectacular views of the mountain. About 70 miles later, the road merges with US 26 and I headed west toward Timberline Lodge and Government Camp.
Mt Adams from Hood River
Mt Hood
TIMBERLINE LODGE AT MT HOOD
Timberline Lodge is about 6 miles off the freeway, and the road to it winds up and up until the top of Mount Hood and the lodge come into view. The 1980 movie “The Shining” was partially filmed here, and although the hotel has gone thru updates and renovations since then, it still is a really cool building, and worth the small side trip off the highway. From the parking lot, to the south you can see Mount Jefferson and the tips of the Three Sisters in Central Oregon.
From Timberline, I made my way back down the hill to US26, and down through the towns of Rhododendron, Wemme, Brightwood and Sandy, then on into Gresham and Portland. Had a quick lunch and stopped for a beer and titties at one of Portland’s topless joints, then it was a quick blast up I-5 toward home. Riding I-5 between Portland and the Puget Sound is usually uneventful, even boring. The most important thing is to keep alert for all the idiot cage drivers who don’t look out for you. I got home a little after 4pm, clocking just over 665 miles since leaving.
Might go north next time…
Might go north next time…