HIGHWAY 20, EAST OF SEDRO WOOLLEY, WA
October 5, 2010
It was time for a road trip. Actually, overdue. Since October had sneaked up on us all and summer disappeared (not that we had a rip-roarin’ summer to begin with), I figured this may be one of the last weekends that a decent road trip would be possible. The weather report had conveniently changed and the rain that was forecast for Sunday evening and Monday had vanished. I got up on Sunday, told Erin I was gonna hit the road, threw my shaving kit in the saddlebag, and off I went.
Wasn’t sure exactly where I would go, but the North Cascades highway had been calling me all summer, and I had not made it yet. I’m convinced that anyone who rides in Western or Central Washington, or even Southern BC, knows about Highway 20. If you are a rider and have not been on this road yet, put it on your list of things to do.
Anyway, like I said, I was thinking about riding the North Cascades, and about 30 miles after leaving home, as I was sailing through Seattle on I-5 (side note: ride thru Seattle at 9:15am on a Sunday morning---NO traffic!), I decided that was going to be my tour for the day. I figured I could hit the highway out of Sedro Woolley, and probably stay the night in Winthrop, about 125 miles away. There was quite a chill in the air, and even though all the time/temperature signs I saw were telling me it was 55-57 degrees out, by the time I hit the rest area at Smokey Point, I was cold. I stopped and put my heated jacket liner on, and got back out on the road. A short distance north found me taking exit 208 toward Arlington, then heading north again on SR9 past Lake McMurray and Big Lake into the town of Sedro Woolley.
I stopped and had lunch at a Subway, gassed up and headed east on State Highway 20 (aka the North Cascades Highway), rolling past towns like Concrete and Rockport, just skirting the edge of the Mt Baker National Forest. Just out of Marblemount, the road turns north and climbs into the Mt Baker National Forest and the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. I stopped at Gorge Lake and got off the bike for a bit, walked up to the viewing area and got some pics, then headed back out.
It was time for a road trip. Actually, overdue. Since October had sneaked up on us all and summer disappeared (not that we had a rip-roarin’ summer to begin with), I figured this may be one of the last weekends that a decent road trip would be possible. The weather report had conveniently changed and the rain that was forecast for Sunday evening and Monday had vanished. I got up on Sunday, told Erin I was gonna hit the road, threw my shaving kit in the saddlebag, and off I went.
Wasn’t sure exactly where I would go, but the North Cascades highway had been calling me all summer, and I had not made it yet. I’m convinced that anyone who rides in Western or Central Washington, or even Southern BC, knows about Highway 20. If you are a rider and have not been on this road yet, put it on your list of things to do.
Anyway, like I said, I was thinking about riding the North Cascades, and about 30 miles after leaving home, as I was sailing through Seattle on I-5 (side note: ride thru Seattle at 9:15am on a Sunday morning---NO traffic!), I decided that was going to be my tour for the day. I figured I could hit the highway out of Sedro Woolley, and probably stay the night in Winthrop, about 125 miles away. There was quite a chill in the air, and even though all the time/temperature signs I saw were telling me it was 55-57 degrees out, by the time I hit the rest area at Smokey Point, I was cold. I stopped and put my heated jacket liner on, and got back out on the road. A short distance north found me taking exit 208 toward Arlington, then heading north again on SR9 past Lake McMurray and Big Lake into the town of Sedro Woolley.
I stopped and had lunch at a Subway, gassed up and headed east on State Highway 20 (aka the North Cascades Highway), rolling past towns like Concrete and Rockport, just skirting the edge of the Mt Baker National Forest. Just out of Marblemount, the road turns north and climbs into the Mt Baker National Forest and the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. I stopped at Gorge Lake and got off the bike for a bit, walked up to the viewing area and got some pics, then headed back out.
FALL COLORS!
One thing I will say: the North Cascades Highway IS beautiful, the fall colors are amazing--- it’s a great ride, but it’s dangerous, and you had better be alert all the time. Wildlife, other cars, trucks, rocks and gravel in the road—all pose a very real threat to anyone on two wheels.
GORGE LAKE
Leaving the parking lot, there is a metal grated bridge to cross, and once over that, the highway meanders along the lake east and north up to Diablo, then begins to climb. Diablo, and Diablo Lake, sit at about 990 feet. Diablo Lake is huge, and sits right next to Ross Lake. There is no shortage of places to pull off for viewing and photo ops, and as the highway heads east, then south, then northeast, the scenery is breathtaking. I passed and met up with a ton of bikes from all over, including a group from BC.
I cruised upward until I reached Washington Pass, and pulled off the road to the rest area/overlook. This is the highest point on the highway, with the overlook sitting at 5638 feet. The only thing I can say about the view is: stunning. Liberty Bell Peak and the surrounding mountains made me think I was in the Rockies with the ruggedness and sheer faces of the cliffs.
I cruised upward until I reached Washington Pass, and pulled off the road to the rest area/overlook. This is the highest point on the highway, with the overlook sitting at 5638 feet. The only thing I can say about the view is: stunning. Liberty Bell Peak and the surrounding mountains made me think I was in the Rockies with the ruggedness and sheer faces of the cliffs.
ON THE ROAD, HIGHWAY 20
DIABLO LAKE
WASHINGTON PASS
The road down from Washington Pass is a blast…twists and turns then long straight-aways lead me down into the Methow (pronounced met-how) Valley toward the town of Winthrop.
Winthrop is a tourist town that’s made up to look like an old west town…wooden sidewalks, old-time storefronts. The renovation began in 1972, just as Highway 20 was nearing completion. A number of the business owners wanted something to draw visitors and travelers to the town, and they came up with the idea of a western restoration. All the local merchants pitched in, and the western theme has remained.
Winthrop is a tourist town that’s made up to look like an old west town…wooden sidewalks, old-time storefronts. The renovation began in 1972, just as Highway 20 was nearing completion. A number of the business owners wanted something to draw visitors and travelers to the town, and they came up with the idea of a western restoration. All the local merchants pitched in, and the western theme has remained.
HIGHWAY 20 GOING DOWN FROM WASHINGTON PASS
THEY'RE RIGHT-IT IS ABOUT THE BEER!
WINTHROP, WA
I rolled into town about 2:30 or so, parked and checked out the stores. Definitely a tourist trap---antique stores, t-shirt stores, local art and homemade wares, a few restaurants/saloons, and of course, the place I had to go---the brewery! The Old Schoolhouse Brewery and Restaurant is built in an old schoolhouse (yeah, surprising, isn’t it?) and has a nice outdoor seating area near the river. I sat in the bar and tried their Pale Ale – really good brew.
After hanging out in town for about an hour, I decided to look for a place to stay for the night, but nothing in or around the town caught my eye. As I headed south out of town on Highway 20 once again, I passed a couple of motels/cabins along the Methow River, but it was still early and I wanted to explore the area a bit. A short distance down the road brought me into Twisp, a small (believe me, small!) town of about 1.2 square miles where the Methow and Twisp Rivers converge. With only about 1000 people, there was not much to see in Twisp. By now, I figured I would ride over to Okanogan, about 30 miles away, and see what they had to offer. At the intersection of Highway 20 and Highway 153, I saw that Wenatchee (to the south) was only about 80 miles, and opted to head there for the night.
After hanging out in town for about an hour, I decided to look for a place to stay for the night, but nothing in or around the town caught my eye. As I headed south out of town on Highway 20 once again, I passed a couple of motels/cabins along the Methow River, but it was still early and I wanted to explore the area a bit. A short distance down the road brought me into Twisp, a small (believe me, small!) town of about 1.2 square miles where the Methow and Twisp Rivers converge. With only about 1000 people, there was not much to see in Twisp. By now, I figured I would ride over to Okanogan, about 30 miles away, and see what they had to offer. At the intersection of Highway 20 and Highway 153, I saw that Wenatchee (to the south) was only about 80 miles, and opted to head there for the night.
I’ll explain something here – I’m a cheap bastard, and if I don’t have to pay $100 bucks a night for a hotel, I’m not gonna! I have a fondness for older “motor court” style motels, since they usually have more character, are family run, and I can often park my scoot right outside my room. I found one called The Avenue Motel, older but recently repainted and updated, for $45. As a bonus, there were restaurants and a sports pub within walking distance. I got checked in about 5:30, unpacked the bike and headed across the street to a barbecue place for dinner, then over to the pub for a long overdue beer.
Monday morning was bright and sunny, with a bit of a wind blowing. I got the scoot packed, and took a look at the map to see which way I wanted to go. I had thought about heading out on Highway 2 through Leavenworth, over Stevens Pass, and down Highway 203 toward Snoqualmie Falls and home. Highway 203 is one of my favorite roads, but since I had time on my hands, I opted instead to roll down Highway 97 and over Blewitt Pass. I stopped in Cashmere and gassed up. I also suited up with my heated jacket and gloves, as Blewett Pass is just over 4100 feet, and there was still enough chill in the air to let me know it was going to be a cold ride! There was very little traffic and the sun was making its way higher into the morning sky as I hit Ellensburg a little over an hour and a half after leaving the motel.
Monday morning was bright and sunny, with a bit of a wind blowing. I got the scoot packed, and took a look at the map to see which way I wanted to go. I had thought about heading out on Highway 2 through Leavenworth, over Stevens Pass, and down Highway 203 toward Snoqualmie Falls and home. Highway 203 is one of my favorite roads, but since I had time on my hands, I opted instead to roll down Highway 97 and over Blewitt Pass. I stopped in Cashmere and gassed up. I also suited up with my heated jacket and gloves, as Blewett Pass is just over 4100 feet, and there was still enough chill in the air to let me know it was going to be a cold ride! There was very little traffic and the sun was making its way higher into the morning sky as I hit Ellensburg a little over an hour and a half after leaving the motel.
MY MOTEL IN WENATCHEE
I had a great breakfast at the Bar 14 Ranch House restaurant, which sits just off Interstate 90 at the Canyon Road exit in Ellensburg. I’ve eaten here quite a bit when going through the area, and their breakfasts are killer!
Since I HATE riding I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass, I chose to ride the Canyon Road down to Yakima, and then take Highway 12 over White Pass. I’ve written about the Canyon Road before, and this is another ride that I think most every rider in the state knows about. Getting into Yakima, I headed north on Highway 12 into Naches, gassed up, and headed toward White Pass. As I climbed up the mountain, I felt the temperature drop and by the time I got to the summit (4500 feet), it was damn COLD! I didn’t need the heated gear, but did swap out my gloves for the heavy ones, had a Coke, and started down the mountain toward Packwood.
But I wasn’t done yet…Cayuse Pass (SR123) cuts across between Highway 12 and Highway 410, and since I had never been over Cayuse, I turned and headed up again. The road is only 16 miles long, but a gorgeous ride---at least, what I could see of it. The road climbs to almost 4700 feet, and about 10 miles in, I rode into the fog bank. OK, not really fog, as I was in the clouds, and it was thick! I came to the junction with Highway 410, made a left and blasted down the west side of Chinook Pass, through Greenwater and into Enumclaw.
Since I HATE riding I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass, I chose to ride the Canyon Road down to Yakima, and then take Highway 12 over White Pass. I’ve written about the Canyon Road before, and this is another ride that I think most every rider in the state knows about. Getting into Yakima, I headed north on Highway 12 into Naches, gassed up, and headed toward White Pass. As I climbed up the mountain, I felt the temperature drop and by the time I got to the summit (4500 feet), it was damn COLD! I didn’t need the heated gear, but did swap out my gloves for the heavy ones, had a Coke, and started down the mountain toward Packwood.
But I wasn’t done yet…Cayuse Pass (SR123) cuts across between Highway 12 and Highway 410, and since I had never been over Cayuse, I turned and headed up again. The road is only 16 miles long, but a gorgeous ride---at least, what I could see of it. The road climbs to almost 4700 feet, and about 10 miles in, I rode into the fog bank. OK, not really fog, as I was in the clouds, and it was thick! I came to the junction with Highway 410, made a left and blasted down the west side of Chinook Pass, through Greenwater and into Enumclaw.
COMING INTO YAKIMA ON THE CANYON ROAD
ON HIGHWAY 12 NEAR WHITE PASS
From Enumclaw, the ride home was only 13 miles. As I rolled into the garage, I checked the odometer: 598 miles. Not a bad ride at all.
Now, if the weather will only hold out for a couple more weeks….
Now, if the weather will only hold out for a couple more weeks….
MT RAINIER FROM HIGHWAY 12
JUST OUTSIDE ROCKPORT, WA
PRETTY DAMN RUGGED!
VIEW FROM WASHINGTON PASS
COMING INTO THE METHOW VALLEY
THE METHOW VALLEY
VIEW FROM WASHINGTON PASS